how do you break in a glove?

[spedrunr]

I know there are probably as many ways as there are glove models, but it would be interesting to hear about the different methods that glovers use to break in a glove.

I guess we would need to clarify 1)infield/outfield, 2)old school leather v. comtemporary

anything else?

My 1st Rawlings Made in USA Horween leather Pro-T (outfield glove) that I bought in 1984 (CEO01) took me about 3 months to break in. It was hard as a rock. I put it in a hot car for about an hour to warm up the leather to open up the pores. I didn't want it to get too heavy so I only lightly coated it with Rawlings Glovolium.

I applied a few coats of it in the pocket area just to get it started. I would try and play catch with it as much as possible but when I couldn't find anyone to play catch with, I kept pounding my fist into the pocket and I would knead the leather while watching tv.

Eventually it formed a nice thumb-to-ring finger break and pocket just by playing catch and using it during practice. I didn't know about the other types of oils and creams that were available back then, but would probably have used vaseline, Lexol or lanolin.

I have never applied anything else to the glove since 1994 and the glove is still very light, nicely conditioned with only about a 1/8" of checking at the hand opening from perspiration (I should have worn a batting glove?).

The pocket closes naturally and the fingers are still firm.

[mudman]

The best way I have found to break in a new glove is to use just good old warm H20. I normally just dunk a glove is warm water, put it on my hand while it is wet and start pounding or playing catch. Let dry naturally and then give it a nice coating of either lanolin, or mink oil (Kenny Jenkins favorite). That's about it.

I was talking to a saddle maker, that had been making saddles for 50+ years, he said that all he ever used to oil them was olive oil. He said it worked great. Never tried it, but I am sure that a saddle takes a whole lot more abuse that a ballglove.

[softball66]

The "Water Treatment" can damage your glove in the long run. I've heard this from both glove makers and tanners. Sure, it's been used for years in the majors and pros and many other sources. Equipment guys used to throw them in the whirlpools then dry them out with the tie the ball in the glove to give it form when it dries out. Just beware.
Getting the glove warm or hot from the sun (no stove or microwave stuff) will soften the leather and you can apply lanolin, many types of conditioners that are safe. And...surprisingly...just play a lot of catch with it.

[coachgrumpy]

I've just been using the inexpensive "Barbasol" with lanolin. Not all over, I just rub it into the palm and where I want it to crease. Then use it. Play catch. I've seen some use baseballs taped to the end of a stick similar to a hammer, used to pound the glove while you are sitting and killing time

[Number9]

i think we've all picked up a glove on ebay at one point or another that had evidence of some questionable break-in methods. two of them have been mentioned here. that's fine all fine and dandy, just don't sell them to me!

i've experimented with just about everything over the years, all with some mid level (i hesitate to call them crap because they've served me well) gloves, but the best method has and always will be quite simply, playing catch. a post-game rub down with a dry towel, just to keep it clean, and a light pre and post season application of lexol has worked very well for me.

[JC]

I have used Franklin Dr. Glove with great results on my son's HOH PRO302-6JB.

I also took a field hockey ball (heavy rubber, same size as a baseball), and attached it to a rubber mallet.

This makes a nice "glove mallet" for pounding out a pocket.

[mudman]

Just a note on the "water treatment". Kenny Jenkins has told me on several occasions that when he gets gloves in for a reline job, or other jobs that calls for a glove to be turned inside out. That he wets them with water first to make them more pliable, and easier to work with.

I think the key is, as long as you oil them up good after they dry you should be ok.

[Number9]

No doubt. Water is used in most leather working techniques. The part that is most damaging is when the entire glove goes for a swim. A little surface water won't do much damage but when the lining and padding get soaked it's not too good. Especially on older models where all the materials are natural. The problem with water is that it floats out all the natural oils in the leather. You're right though, a good moisturizing treatment after it's been wet will certainly help it recover.

[BretMan]

The Doctor Glove conditioner from Franklin is good stuff. It is easy to use, about impossible to overuse, and contains both lanolin and neats foot oil. I have used it to break-in many gloves and even to soften older vintage glove that are particularly stiff or hard.

If you're near a Wal-Mart, keep your eyes peeled around the end of baseball season. I have found this at a clearance price of $1.00 per can the past few years and have quite a few extra cans!

Of course, Lexol is good stuff, too. Anymore it is about all I use, but I still have a box full of other leather cleaners and conditioners to choose from.

One more comment: I was surprised to read that Kenny Jenkins advocates the use of mink oil.

I have always heard that mink oil is geared toward waterproofing leather and as such serves to close the pores. Years ago (early 80's) I purchased a new glove and gave it a good coating of mink oil. While it did soften up, it seems to have softened it too much. I still have this glove and despite a total relacing it is still very floppy and doesn't hold it's shape very well. The leather is darkened and cracked, quite brittle in spots. The lining disintergrated and the original laces broke in several spots.

I take care of my equipment and have other gloves I've used for years. This is the only glove I ever used mink oil on and the only glove to have the leather become so distressed. Luckily, I was able to find one just like it on eBay!

[ebbets55]

Good post Bretman. Joe once showed me an old trapper mitt from the 50's that was nearly unused but was oiled with neatsfoot oil back in the 50's. 50 years later, the mitt was so crispy that if he dropped it, it would have shattered. Another glove collector showed me his Wilson glove from the 90's that he had oiled up so many times that the leather was so soft and floppy. I threw a ball to him, the web folded back and the ball hit him in the mouth (I loved it). It's my opinion and experience that neatsfoot oil and mink oil really soften up a glove but will make it so floppy in the near term and will clog up the pores and dry it out in the long term.

I have never used the Franklin conditioner but am anxious to try it. On another note what would you guys recommend be put on a Rawlings Pro-Preferred kip leather glove that wouldn't darken it? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

JD

[ebbets55]

I'm dying to try one of these. I just can't seem to bring myself to. Anyone want to try?

Jim

[vintagebrett]

Wow! That is the best collection of glove conditioners I've ever seen!!! How many different manufacturers do you have?

[ebbets55]

Thanks. I don't know, I have never counted them. They are so hard to find that I have resorted to collecting all of the different variations. All the visible ones are slightly different. The dupes aren't displayed. All of the Rawlings Glovoliums are slightly different with different tops or different colors (metal vs. plastic, etc.). The five Regent cans in the back row are only from the 70's and 80's but I have located five different ones. I even get excited about those. There are two liniment bottles up there which don't belong but they fit the theme and I don't have any shelf space left. I like the Rodeo cans with Base Ball written as two words. The round can in the front is a D&M. Out of all of these, I still don't have a Reach. I would love to find one of those.

JD